The New Age of Traditional Mexican Mole

In another colonial city, Puebla (ancestral home of poblano), the chef Angel Vazquez has done his share of bridge building — echoes of Thailand, Greece and Morocco have been evident in his cooking. But at his new place, Augurio, he has decided to hunker down with tradition. The restaurant is devoted to mole in its purest form; when diners sit down, they start by selecting which variety they’re in the mood for, with the course of the meal unfolding from there. “We’re giving more importance to the sauce,” Vazquez says. For connoisseurs, everything depends on the moment when mole makes contact with a warm tortilla. And while chefs may be finding new ways for you to experience that moment, Vazquez, for his part, is obsessed with the old ways.



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